Many bathers think about starting to wind themselves. Everyone has their own reasons for this. Some want to save money, others want to get exclusive features of the device, and still others want to test their abilities and feel like a master of vaping at all its levels.

By winding homemade spirals onto an atomizer, you get such targeted resistance that is impossible when using factory "heads". Also, with the help of winding, you can influence the temperature of the steam, the force of the blow to the throat, etc.

Is the wire really important?

The first thing to talk about is the wire. It is with its help that you can change the main characteristics of the smoke.

The most popular are:

• canthal;
• nichrome;
• nickel;
• titanium;
• stainless steel.

The most common wire for different types vape device is canthal. It is used for circuit boards and mechanical mods. The wires have different sections, which are indicated by numbers, for example, nichrome 0.4 or 0.5. Its resistance depends on the thickness of the product. A coil (coil) with a small resistance on a powerful device will not give the desired result, since it will completely burn out.

Wire selection

First, pay attention to the packaging of the wire. It should be sold in a reel and not in a separate package.

Let's start with the popular kanthal. It has a low cost, does not lose its properties under the influence of high temperatures and is quite elastic when weaving, does not lend itself to destruction even with constant long-term use. Its main disadvantage is considered to be incomplete disclosure of the taste of the steam.

Unlike kanthal, nichrome needs less time to warm up. It gives a lot more pleasant aroma and steam right after the start. Many vapers agree that this wire makes the flavor cleaner. It should be borne in mind that the wire is less elastic, so it will not work for beginners.

Nickel has almost zero resistance, making it the most sensitive material when heated. Can't use it when vaping at high power. It is used most often with the wires described above.

Titanium can be called the most suitable for modern thermal control boards. It conveys the taste of steam well, but is distinguished by its high cost.

Different types of steam can be obtained using these coils:

1. Microcoil. Classic single wire spiral winding.
2. Twisted. Two identical wires are twisted together into a pigtail and then a spiral is created.
3. Clapton Coyle. Its structure is similar to a string. On top of one wire, another wire is wound, which differs in thickness.
4. Twisted Clapton. It has the same weaving as the previous one, but inside not one, but two wires.
5. Space Coil. It reels in the same way as a microcoil, but there is a distance between the turns.

Many of these coils are needed for different devices and their characteristics in use. Some for a taste change, others for a better bulk.

What do you need for self winding?

So, we went through the theory, and now we should get the necessary tools and materials for winding. Let's say right away that you don't need to spend large sums on them. Self winding allows for good savings.

You will need a wire, frame, wire cutters, atomizer, wick material (Japanese cotton, cotton wool, or silica cord). With these materials and tools, you can make your first winding in 10 minutes. Have a nice bulk!

Sooner or later, any vaper learns about the possibility of winding his own spirals on the atomizer and thinks about why, in fact, all this is needed, because you can just buy a new "head". The need to create their own coils is not as great today as it used to be, but vapers can still reap significant benefits from their own coils.

Firstly, by independently creating a spiral, you can achieve a target resistance that is different from those that are produced in the factory. For example, for the Kanger SubTank clearomizer, there are standard heads for sub-ohm vaping (0.5 Ohm) and cigarette puff (1.5 Ohm). If you want to achieve a minimum resistance, for example, 0.1 Ohm, or, conversely, install a spiral with a high resistance for a cigarette puff (1.8 Ohm), then you will have to either change the clearomizer or create your own winding.

Secondly, with enough experience, you will be able to influence the temperature of the steam, the blow to the throat, and other sensations of vaping.

Thirdly, the proprietary e-cigarette windings allow for savings, as consumables cost less than a factory assembled vaporizer. In the long term, the benefits can be quite significant.

To create a winding, you will need a serviced atomizer that has a special base for installing your own spiral. As a rule, such a base is denoted by the abbreviation RBA or RTA - rebuildable atomizer and rebuildable tank atomizer, respectively; RDTA - rebuildable dripping tank atomizer (dripping tank). For example, the already mentioned SubTank allows you to use the RBA base. Within the framework of this article, we will first of all consider the Subtank, since this is one of the most popular models, and many vapers begin to wind from it.

Atomizers for coils

When choosing a serviced atomizer, one can refer to the vaping experience. The following models are popular among the community:

The Kanger SubTank is an already "advertised" device that became one of the first popular sub-ohm clearomizers. It is distinguished by high quality and "indestructibility", as well as the possibility of using both factory spirals and independent windings, for which vapers fell in love with it. It is worth mentioning its new modification TopTank - a model with a top filling, which does not need to be unscrewed from the mod in order to fill in the liquid;

Kayfun is a widespread brand in Russia that produces only serviced clears;

Billow v2 - clear, which differs from the previous ones by the ability to install two spirals, and not one;

Zephyrus (Zephyrus v2) - also a high-quality double-coil clearomizer, loved by domestic vapers for its versatility similar to SubTank - the ability to work with their own windings and factory "heads";

Velocity is a drip, that is, a design that does not imply storage of liquid, but direct instillation of the "slurry" onto the spiral. This type of vaping is more difficult and less comfortable - one instillation is enough on average for only one "smoke break". But on the other hand, it turns out a lot of steam and taste.

Materials for winding

In fact, in addition to the most maintained atomizer, a vaper needs only two things: wire and cotton wool. The wire will become a spiral, and the cotton wool will become a wick, which will be wetted and, under the influence of heating the spiral and the incoming air, "give out" steam when tightening. Today there are several options for materials.

Spiral materials

• nichrome - has good performance, is easy to wind and is inexpensive;
• kanthal - aka fechral, \u200b\u200band the second name is even more correct, because "kanthal" is the name of the manufacturer of the material. An analogue of nichrome, but does not have nickel in its composition, which is why it costs less, serves less and is not so convenient in operation, because it twists and springs. The last drawback is eliminated by heating, but more on that below. For a combination of price and quality, canthal is considered the most popular material;
• stainless steel is a cheap and affordable material with a long service life. It is not very convenient in winding, therefore it is not often used. Nevertheless, recently, temperature-controlled devices (TC), operating on stainless steel, have begun to appear, so the popularity of the material is growing, because it can work in both TC and variwatt modes equally well. Moreover, unlike titanium and nickel with stainless steel, you can easily create a winding with a high resistance (about 1 ohm);
• nickel is an expensive material for temperature controlled devices. It is of no value for beginners, as it is too expensive for "experiments";
• titanium is an analogue of nickel, with the only difference that it does not emit harmful substances when overheated (the same problem exists with kantal with nichrome). Whether nickel overheats in devices with TC above the "danger threshold" of 600 ℃ is still a controversial issue, because the mods "keep" the maximum temperature within 350 ℃. Due to the continuing potential danger, many vapers are already switching to titanium for confidence.

Wick making materials

• silica cord is an obsolete material that is practically not used today. Gives less vapor and less flavor than others, gets dirty quickly and relatively poorly conducts liquid;
• cotton wool is necessarily non-sterile, otherwise, when steaming, there will be a "hospital flavor". A very cheap material available anywhere in the world, which can be purchased at any pharmacy or supermarket. Even cotton pads will do;
• japanese cotton is the best material for this momentflavorless and easy to use. True, for a beginner vaper it may seem expensive.

Winding resistance

The main characteristic of the created winding is its resistance. For example, winding on a Subtank can be either standard values \u200b\u200blike 1.2 Ohm, 0.5 Ohm, that is, an analogue of ready-made evaporators that are sold, or 0.7 Ohm, 0.3 Ohm, and so on. Resistance depends on several signs:

• the length of the spiral is the number of rings. The more "path" the current needs to travel, the greater the resistance;
• thickness - the thicker the wire, the lower the resistance. However, it is impossible to increase the thickness indefinitely, and already by 0.4 mm it becomes difficult to create rings. Also to warm up large thickness more energy is required, therefore, battery consumption increases;
• material resistance value. Various materials differ significantly in their resistance, therefore the number of turns, their diameter and the total length of the spiral will also differ.

When creating a winding, it should be borne in mind that the more turns and their diameter, the larger the heating area is obtained, which, in turn, affects the temperature and the amount of steam. However, you cannot just "wind up more", since the mod may not "pull" such a spiral, because of which it will not heat well, or simply will not fit into the clearomizer.

The coil for electronic cigarettes must be wound in accordance with Ohm's laws. Depending on the battery used, the consequence of improper winding can be either a simple failure to work (mods with a board), or failure of the entire device (mech mods). For example, if you have coiled a 0.5 Ohm coil onto your SubTank, then you will need a mod that operates at more than 15 watts. However, in the modern market, there are rarely 15 watts "on board" mods that are "able" to work with low impedance windings. Therefore, it is important that the e-cigarette is suitable not only in terms of power, but also in terms of the maintained resistance. And, as a rule, such devices "start" with 30 watts. The battery is also important - it must be high-current to avoid overheating.

It is also possible to achieve low resistance at low watts on nickel or titanium windings, but they can malfunction without temperature control and quickly fail.

• To obtain 0.5 Ohm on A1 cantal with a wire thickness of 0.4 mm, 5.5 turns with a diameter of 2.25 mm are required.
• To obtain 0.3 Ohm on nickel Ni 200 with a wire thickness of 0.2 mm, 11.5 turns with a diameter of 2.5 mm are required.

It sounds complicated, but in today's world, everything is simple thanks to the Internet. Numerous online calculators allow you to calculate the winding in two counts, for example, reprova or coiltoy. Resources even offer a mobile phone app.

Today the most popular resistance values \u200b\u200bare "sub-ohms", that is, below 1 ohm. Coils can be created up to 0.05 Ohm if you are hovering on a mod with a board (provided that such resistance is supported, of course), or even lower if on a mech mod. Thanks to the protections, this low resistance is safe and you don't have to worry about a short circuit. Also still popular are the "classic" values \u200b\u200bof 1.2 and 1.6 ohms, which produce less steam, but work great on low power e-cigarettes. Such Oms are very "respected" by fans of a cigarette puff.

Winding types

There are five main types of winding in total. These are the coils (spirals):

Microcoil or Nanocoil - a small spiral, the turns of which are located at a minimum distance from each other. Suitable for small clears and produces a lot of steam, since it has a larger heating area. However, when creating such a spiral, you need to carefully monitor the absence of a short circuit;

Regular coil or spacecoil - the word space in it does not mean space, but space. The coils of such a spiral are separated by an empty space, due to which the liquid passes better throughout the cotton wool, there is less chance of scorching it and inhaling smoke instead of steam. Easier to wind, but produces slightly less steam. It is also possible to "spit" liquid into the mouth with too sparse rings, since the "slurry" may not have time to evaporate;

Coyle Pigtail - not quite a full-fledged view, but a subtype of spirals, which are wound not from one wire, but from two, intertwined with each other. This increases the heating area, which means taste and steam, but also there is a greater chance of sucking in liquid instead of steam. Not suitable for all clears, for example, this cannot be installed on a Subtank. Pigtail coils can be either microcoil or spacecoil;

Parallel coils - microcoil or spacecoil, winding not from one wire, but from two. This approach allows you to increase the heating area, flavor and steam. It is more difficult in winding, since it is necessary to fix the ends of the wire for uniformity;

Art coils - complex patterned weaves, which are pleasant to look at and even more pleasant to float. They give a lot of taste and steam, since their heating area is amazing, they look great, but they are very difficult to wind, so they remain the prerogative of vapers.

Winding process

Winding an atomizer will only be demonstrated using the example of space and microcoil, since the creation of artcoils is too difficult to describe in a nutshell.

To wind a space or microcoil, you need the following set of tools:

In this way, windings are created on a clearomizer or drip. Depending on which wire section and the number of rings you have chosen, the flavor and steam produced will change. Today, 0.3 Ohm winding is generally accepted, since this value is achieved by a small number of rings and a fairly thin wire. However, any values \u200b\u200bare suitable for the first windings.

The process of creating more complex spirals, such as Clapton, Chain and others, is covered in a separate article.

Result

Your coil will have different characteristics depending on what mistakes you made and how you positioned the coil on the base:

• temperature - depends on the type of spiral and the heating area;
• steam formation rate - depends on the resistance of the spiral. At resistance values \u200b\u200babove 1.5 Ohm, vaporization will be relatively slow and suitable for vaping with a cigarette puff. At values \u200b\u200bbelow 0.3 Ohm, vaporization will be fast, but a powerful mod is required;
• blow to the throat (trothitis) - depends on the location of the spiral. The higher it is relative to the base, the harder the TX, the lower - the softer;
• the service life of the winding - depends on a whole set of factors, but the main destructive moments are overheating and poor fluid supply. The quality of the liquid itself also has an impact.

Among the classic mistakes should be mentioned the incorrect calculation of the resistance, as a result of which the spiral simply "does not start". Modern devices partially eliminate this problem, since they have protections and can work with a wide range of resistances. Short-circuiting is a common problem caused by the coil touching metal parts of the base (not counting special mounts). A burning taste can appear when the coil overheats, or when there is insufficient fluid permeability through the wick. Leakage is the result of an incorrectly selected type of spiral and incorrect laying of cotton wool. Leaks are also possible due to poor tightening of the clearomizer parts.

How beneficial is it?

There will be no immediate benefit from serviced evaporators. Long-term perspective only! You can understand that the winding needs to be replaced by the same signs as for the finished evaporator. The replacement frequency for both options is approximately equal.

The first fruits of the savings will be visible in the first months. For example, 0.5 Ohm evaporators for the Kanger SubTank cost about 1300 rubles per package of 5 pieces. And this is about 520-780 rubles a month. Consumables for self-winding will cost about 120 rubles per month, and this is taking into account the "jumped" course. The savings are almost five times, but first you have to buy tools and talentlessly "drain" several meters of wire and cotton wool for training. But once you learn how to wind spirals, the benefits of this skill will become obvious to you!